City of Nawabs

Avadh or Oudh (if you are British) , as the region around Lucknow, the current capital of Uttar Pradesh, was known in historical times, was ruled by Nawabs claining their origins from the Persians. Basically Shias, they have given to Lucknow a reputation for high aesthetics, poetry and courtesy. The city is also known as the City of Nawabs. The Hindi spoken here has a lilt and poetic resonance which is found even in the colloquial speech of the commoners. The people, too, are very polite and courteous.
As witness, on our way from the airport, the succession of indigent men about town, who courteously, politely and elaborately gave us directions to our destination which were apparently wrong. The words "Aisa Karo..." i.e. "do like this.." were followed by a complex series of instructions to go straight, turn left...right and so on, which took us almost a kilometre away from our destination. But the courtesy and desire to help was touching. Suffice it to say that it was sheer luck that helped us to locate our hotel!

In the evening we decided to visit some of the more important sights in Lucknow. The chief among these are the two Imambaras. The larger or Bada Imambara was constructed by Nawab Asaf Ud Daula. This is essentially a Dharga or Prayerhall surmounted by spires and turrets. The intricate architectural work has made it a pleasant sight to view.

The Imambara is accesed through a wide gateway through which the broad frontage of the edifice may be glimpsed. On entering the complex we walk across a pathway surrounded by pleasing lawns and fountains.
On the right hand side as we proceed to the Imambara is the Jumma Masjid a splendid mosque with domes, tall towers and minarets.

The main chamber of the Imambara is a line of Dhargas of various renowned Imams or muslim religious leaders. AS our companion and unofficial guide M. Feroze was well known to someone in the Shia Waqf Board he got us through the guards everywhere by flashing a symbol written by ball point pen on his right palm. This acted as our passport every where including the Bhul-Bhulaiya or intricate of maze of passageways above the nain chamber. Those who enter the maze after a strenuous climb up a narrow and steep flight of stairs would find it very difficult to come out. The trick is to keep going up till you come to the terrace and locate the only stairwell that leads directly down to the ground floor.
By the time we came to the terrace there was quite a wind which swirled and picked up small grains of sand with which we were buffetted as we attempted to crosss the terrace. The view of the Jumma Masjid from the arches in the terrace of the Bara Imambara was impressive in the quickening darkness of dusk.
It started raining then and we had to run to our car. We, then, left for the Chota Imambara via the Rumi Gate amidst rain and wind.

The Chota Imambara as the name indicates is a smaller structure. But it has a beautifully constructed dome on top and there hung in it innumerable chandiliers and lamps, exquisite in design and workmanship. The hierloom or crown and otherr costly jewels are not the originals about copies made from the originals which are now in England.
After we enter the decorative archway there is a metal image of a flying fish surmounted on metal arch. This would turn continuosly and act as a wind vane, pointing out the direction of the wind. There is also statutte of a lady holding an iron chain attached to a metal rodon top of the entrance arch effectively acting as a lightning rod. The complex hasa centre aisle which runs almost the whole length from the gateway to the edifice. There is a canal in the middle of the aisle and lawns around it.
We also looked into the stables where there are two pure white horses with not a blemish on them. One of them a stallion was standing while the other was on its side, resting. These horses, presented by Sanjay Khan, actor to the Imambara, are used in ceremonial processionns at the time of the Urs festival of the Hazrat Immams.
Lucknow is also famous for its Chikan Work clothing. We visited the Lucknow Chikan Emporium which was highly spoken of by the locals.