Kohima and World War II

Kohima was an important location in the south east Asian arena during World War II. The war between Japan and the Allied armies was partly fought here. In fact NH 39 is built over the original road that was used to march on Imphal after capturing Kohima. The relics from WWII are preserved and displayed in the War Memorial alongside the Tribal Heritage Centre.

Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose spent time here and in Manipur training and developing the Indian National Army against the British in his own attempt at liberating India from British rule. In this attempt he had to join hands with the Japanese.

Another memorial from WWII is the catholic church on Garrison Hill. The church is another prominent land mark visible due to its prominent location. In fact, I can see it now from the window of my room in Hotel Grandeur. Built with financial assistance from the survivors of the Japanese soldiers who also died in Kohima along with the Indian and Britishsoldiers. The prayer on the plaque in Japanese and English is for World Peace.

The Naga Heritage

The only place where we can have a glimpse of the Tribal customs is in the Tribal Heritage Centre. Here, the culture of Nagaland is preserved intact in the Window to Nagaland area. There are sixteen different tribes in Nagaland with their own peculiar type of huts, ceremonial drums, head dress and art and culture. They have distinct languages too but by a common understanding they now speak Nagamese a combination of Assamese and Hindi. To see Nagaland captured in a single place one should visit The Heritage Centre during the Hornbill Festival in the first week of December. All the tribes assemble here at that time and display their dance, music and cuisine.

Kohima...Continued

The most prominent building in Kohima which is visible from almost anywhere in the city is the Nagaland Police Headquarters. This brightly painted blue and white building stands imposingly on a promontory overlooking the NH39. At first glance it could easily be mistaken for a star hotel with its long flight of steps and driveway leading to the main entrance. But the boldly painted title of the building would immediately dispel this doubt.

Perhaps Colonel Keating, the then Chief Commisioner of Assam, chose Kohima as the erstwhile headquarters of the Naga Hills, because of the Sky above Kohima, and not just for its strategic location.

The sky in Kohima is an uncanny shade of cornflower blue, so deep, so clear, it’s almost surreal. (I have seen the same or slightly deeper shade of blue in the heights above the Gulmarg valley…so it must be something to do with the altitude and total absence of airborne pollution.) The weather conditions must have influenced the decision for, on lazy summer days, when the sun gets a little too warm, there will still be a cool breeze rustling through the stoic Alder trees. Maybe it was all these and more—a far cry from the concrete skyline and asphalt jungle of the world outside. (Well, Kohima too seems to have acquired its own concrete skyline as I could see numerous concrete buildings clustered in the bowl of the valley. If this is not curbed or at least controlled as it is being done in Kodai, Tamilnadu, Kohima will become as congested as Shimla or Darjeeling.) This charming hilly hamlet offers visitors rare and vanishing vistas—of horizons beyond serried mountain peaks, of clouds bending to kiss these mountain tops, rolling hills of emerald green and Prussian blue, and at nights, the lights spread a sparkling carpet at one’s feet.

But if you think the people in Kohima to be dressed in tribal costumes, then you have to think again. The various tribes and especially the Angamis who inhabit Kohima and surroundings are completely anglicized and westernized. The young men and girls who strut about the roads would do any European fashion show proud with their latest designer clothes and accessories. They are mostly Christian, which means they have broken away from their tribal origins. They are regular church-goers, observe the sabaath strictly and have first names like Jack and John.

Kohima

Kohima is a nice hill station with houses and buildings perched on slopes on either side of the NH39. From the balcony of The Hotel Grandeur where I am lodged currently, I can see the profusion of roof tops, shops, churches and other structures spread in arrays on the slopes and the unending series of mountain ranges beyond. In fact the approach of dusk and dark provided an even more panoramic view of the town with lights blinking on buildings like fireflies and the almost full moon shining down on the scene.

From Imphal to Kohima

Camp at Kohima--Nagaland

The NH 39 from Imphal to Kohima passes through A district called Senapati. As we were informed that there was possibility of a five day bandh in Senapati District, Manipur from Saturday evening, we decided to leave today for Kohima. The NH 39 which passes right through Imphal goes to Kohima, Dimapur and then Gauhati in Assam which has replaced Shillong, Meghalaya as the nerve centre of the North East.

The road up to Senapati is fine. It stretches straight in the middle with the Sadar Hills on either side in the east and west. Occasionally the road curves as it climbs up an incline. A river with a small trickle of water in it flows along by the sidew of the road. As the altitude rises after Senapati, we say bye to the river valley and swing a bridge between to mountains to another mountain range on the way to Kohima. We had a light breakfast of Chow Mein and Momos at Senapati.

After Senapati till Maram. The road becomes pitted and extremely rough after this till Mao Gate. The ride is a bone wracking series of jolts and twists with dust flying everywhere.

The roads in Nagalad after Mao Gate are slightly better possibly since they are maintained by the BRTF.

The Govindaji Templ;e - Imphal

Before leaving Imphal, we visited the Govindaji temple near the Kangla palace. While many Manipurians seem to be Vaishnmavite or Bishnupriyam, the prevalent religion is Maitai a derivative of Oriental Budhism with Dragon worship etc., It was in recent history that a Bishnoi saint converted the kings of Manipur to Vaishnavism. Those Manipurians who converted at that time are called Bishnupriya. They wear a Y shaped mark in sandal paste on their head with the downward vertical in the Y extended over the bridge of the nose.

The temple has three shrines dedicated to Sri Krishna and Jagannathji. The idols are colorful and depicted in the North Indian style. The image of Garuda is seated, not directly in front of the idol (as it is in the South) but to the side. I thought the upturned beak and the reverential attitude struck a peculiar note. Directly opposite the main shrine is a many-pillared hall possibly for bajan and kirtan. Surrounding the main shrine are many smaller shrines.

I am now in Imphal, Manipur. I have written a lot about Manipur in another Blog. This photo was taken in a busy market area near Thangal Bazaar today morning. Imphal is a combination of the squalor of old Mumbai with the dirt and filth of the Howrah end of Kolkata. I am yet to see a pleasing and beautiful spot.

The gentleman standing next to me in Red and Black is Mr. Dwaraknath, a senior managerial person from the NGO I have come to audit here. He is a great person to travel with as he is widely traveled all over the country. I have traveled to other places like Jaipur, Lucknow and Indore with him and have learnt a very useful lesson from him. I have learnt to travel really light! From being a guy who lugs around three suitcases behind me for a two day trip, I have learnt to carry everything I need in rucksack behind my back! Continuous learning and improvement can happen in any sphere!