A Hidden Paradise

I am now in Kodaikanal at the Sterling Lake View Resort. We left Chennai on 2^nd May by surface. While it cannot be denied that the new four lane highways coming up everywhere are a great comfort for the traveler, I could not help but notice the total devastation that the construction activities of these highways leave in their 

wake. Trees are uprooted en mass, all human settlements are evacuated leaving behind a perfectly featureless landscape that stretches plain and uninteresting on either side of the long road running towards infinity. I did miss the pleasure of viewing the constantly changing panorama

 of scenes and settings. And on this spic and span world, the sun beats down with its hot and unmerciful rays! 

At last we climbed the hills and on attaining Perumal Malai, breathed the cool fresh air of Kodai! Somehow, Kodai still retains its pristine splendor among the Hill Resorts in India. But arguably not for long! Deforestation has laid bare what must have once been verdant slops. Now they are brown and covered with patches of cultivated land and newly constructed buildings. Is Kodai going the way Ootacamund has gone?

 

We were in Sterling Valley View at Attuvanpatti till yesterday. Our room in the resort commanded a fabulous view of the Vilpatti Valley.

 

As we are regular visitors to Kodai in May, we generally avoid the usual “sight seeing” spots. Our favorite haunt in the evenings being the lakeside. My wife and I invariably take a brisk walk around the star shaped lake while the children are busy cycling or riding horses. This time we are accompanied by my wife’s sister, Usha  and her husband, Ramkumar.

 

Our sensibilities thus jaded by a surfeit, we craved for variety. Even the usual jaunt to Berijam lake was declared as not qualifying! We were, therefore, quite happy when Selvam, a local boatman and Ram’s good friend suggested we make a trip to Mannavanoor.

 

The road to Mannavanoor runs above Kodai lake. As we drive upwards on the winding road, Kodai lake can be glimpsed on our left. The road runs through thick forest land. The sylvan atmosphere ensures that the tree covered slopes are home to the Gaur, the elephant and a few leopards! We were not able to see even the Gaur herds that are a regular sight on this route. En route we passed Poombarai village another scenic locale.

 

About thirty kilometers away from Kodai on the Munnar road, Mannavanoor is a breathtaking sight! The Mannavanoor valley is almost a hidden delight. The valley floor is carpeted with emerald green grassland and down below at the deepest point is a  kidney shaped lake glistening like diamonds set amidst emeralds. We had a glimpse of this paradise from a view point before the road descends into the valley.

 

The descent to the hollow takes us through Mannavanoor village. The original settlers in this place were a group who had fled the wrath of Tipu Sultan and had made their way via Munnar to this spot where they settled down to a life in the forest. Later post 1819 and the establishment of Kodai by the British as their summer retreat, Mannavanoor was discovered by British surveyors who thereafter laid the road that connected the denizens of Mannav

anoor and Kavunchi (a hamlet situated further inside the valley) to the outside world! Now, the government has established a Central Wool Research Farm here and the entire valley is reserved for sheep and cattle grazing. The absence of tourists and crowds coupled with its scenic beauty makes it a popular shooting location. We were able to see the magnificient sets being erected for the movie Adhavan for a Surya/Nayantara dance number. We marveled at the extradinary attention to detail and exorbitant expenditure for put

ting in place a set that would be torn down almost immediately and would figure on screen for hardly two to five minutes!

 

A brisk walk is needed to reach the lake from the road. The unsullied waters of this small water body reflect the surrounding mountains and trees perfectly. The place is an ideal picnic spot. As the location is still not well known and the drive through thick jungle is a bit daunting, mainstream tourism is yet to reach Mannavanoor. A few people like us come here in their own vehicles with guides. Perfect silence and virgin landscape are the rewards for the efforts to reach this heavenly place. An ideal spot where we can practice the kingly art and science of doing nothing!

 

On the way back we passed by a Mahalakshmi Temple situated on a promontory overlooking a valley a short distance before Poomparai. The location amidst majestic mountains and green valley gave a primitive and powerful aura to the temple in the twilight. But as the doors were locked we had t o be satisfied with a Darshan of the Shikara.