Sojourn in Serendip – IV

We wended our way from Nuwara Eliya to Colombo through Emerald green tea estates that rolled away on all sides. The road wound along the lush green estates. In the distance were the tall mountain peaks.

En route we came across numerous water falls and cascades created when the Kelani River meets a rock formation that defies erosion. The river then falls down to the next harder rock and so on as it creates a layered waterfall amidst the green fields.

We stopped at St. Claire’s Falls which is, by far, the most picturesque of the waterfalls in this region. We also saw Devon’s Falls which is just opposite the St. Claire’s Estate Tea Centre. We had an invigorating drink of the tea brewed on St. Claire’s Estate. Still further away is Hatton, a small British Settlement developed by Tea Planters during the British Colonial period.

In the distance we can glimpse the mist-covered heights of Adam’s Peak or Sri Pada, the second highest peak in Srilanka but arguably the more popular. The Sinhalese believe Buddha visited the Island Three times during his life.Every year thousands of pilgrims climb this figh mountain to view the foot print (Sri Pada) of The Buddha on the Summit. The Muslims believe the print was that of The Prophet Mohammed (May his name be Praised) and the Hindus that it is the holy foot print of Sri Rama! I am sure the Christians have an equally convincing story of a visit by Jesus to the Islands when he left his imprint on this high peak. Well, after all, Religion is not about God it is about Belief!

As we move down from Nuwara Eliya to Colombo, the Kelani River accompanies us singing a merry song on its way to the plains. The terrain on which the water flows makes it ideal for white water rafting.

For the curious movie buffs, it may be interesting to gret down from the car and take detour on foot to the lacation where the famous movie, “The Bridge on the River Kwai” was shot. The forest area between Khanchanabhuri (where the Tiger Temple is situated) and Burma is the place where the story of the famous movie, “The Bridge on the River Kwai” happened. My friend B Ramakrishnan has travelled on the legendary train across the bridge. But the movie was shot here in Srilanka on the River Kelani. A bridge was actually constructed here and was destroyed as part of the shooting.

Another place of interest could be the huge bungalow of Dr. Anand Jayasuriya, now converted into a restaurant which houses his imperesssive collection of classic vintage cars including a couple of Rolls Royce, a porche and a Jaguar.

Sojourn in Serendip – III

English Tea Time

Leaving Kandy we moved on to the heights of Nuwara Eliya to check into the Galway Forest Lodge. Nuwara Eliya meaning “the City of Dawn” is the town at the highest elevation (about 2000m above sea level) in Sri Lanka and its tallest peak, Piduruthalagala (2555m) can be seen from here. The city established by the British in the Nineteenth Century is known as “Little England”. In fact there are some stretches of this quaint colonial landscape where a traveler would honestly believe himself to be in Shropshire or Kent; that is, of course, until a green autorickshaw or the ubiquiyous posters of President RajaPakse comes into one’s view.

Nuwara Eliya is in the Heart of the Tea Estate. On the way, there are numerous Tea Factories, remodelled into Tea Centres that serve tea, Lunch and also sell pure Ceylon Tea. On Request it is possible to have a guided tour of the adjoining factory. We visited a Tea Factory on BlueField Tea Estate.

Asoka Vaatika

In the evening, we braved the weather to visit the Temple of Seetha at Seetha Eliya. En route we attempted a walk in Gregory park on the banks of Nuwara Eliya lake. But a heavy downpour chased us back to our vehicle.

The Ramayana is compelling narrative that is Pan-Indian. Every region in India has a shrine associated with the star-crossed prince of Ayodhya who was God incarnate as Man! The story crosses the sea and enters Sri Lanka when Ravan the King of Lanka abducts Sita, the wife of Rama. Sita was kept imprisoned in a garden of Asoka Trees. It is on the location of this Asoka Gasrden or Vaatika that the Temple of Seetha at Seetha Eliya is built. The Temple houses 3000 year old idols of Ram, Lakshman, Sita and Hanumanji. The idols are somewhat defaced and new idols are used for regular worship.

The Asoka trees (or atleast what remains of them after Hanumanji’s destructive frenzy during the burning of Lanka) have been since destroyed by the British. But the location itself still has a few Asoka trees gto bear witness. The soil nearabout is black in color as the entire forest had been burned down when Hanumanji went bersek and put the city of Lanka to Flame with his burning tail. The huge print of Hanumanji’s foot as he took gigantic form or Viswaroopa to disclose his true identity to Sita is another significant part of the visit to Nuwara Eliya.

The ardent traveler can go further up the hills where there is a Ravana Temple and a Waterfalls called Ravana Falls where the demon Ravana is said to have taken his bath.

Thence we drove past N. Eliya town and had tea at the Grand Indian Restaurant opposite The Grand Hotel, a beautiful colonial hotel surrounded by green lawns and tall trees.