Friday, December 17, 2010

Ochara Parabrahma Temple


The last time I was in Alapuzha was during my annual Sabharimala trip when we passed through the town to visit Ambalapuzha, Mannarshala and Haripad. Before that, quite a long time ago I had taken a pleasure trip on a Kettuvellom or house boat from Quilon to Alleppey. En route on the backwaters we visited Vallikaavu. We heard about the Parabrahma shethram in Ochara, but due to other preoccupations, couldn’t make it.

This time, I was able to do it. The temple has a gopuram with a Rishabam on it. The shrine is an open air shrine. The long walk from the main entrance leads to a huge spreading peepul tree that is the embodiment of the all-pervading single-self- which- is- in- all; the Parabrahma. Parabrahma is not to be confused with Brahmaji the creator who is but one manifested form of this total being. In Sanskrit Param means beyond or ultimate. The Parabrahma is the one-in-all-all-in-one essence of the manifested and unmanifested being which goes beyond shapes and forms. This is the Virinchi-Narayana-Sankaratman referred to in the vedic chant. As this concept can never be depicted in any form, the formless whole is worshipped without a temple or shrine. The tree symbolizes it with its spreading branches that seem to extend everywhere. Behind this shrine is another and a third dedicated to the naga deities. This place like Mannarshala is a surviving cult of pantheistic worship where nature is worshipped as the manifested form of the unmanifested un-knowable whole. In keeping with the holistic tradition, there are no Brahmin Pujaris. The acolytes are all non-brahmins who are traditionally responsible for the upkeep of the shrine.

The words of the song, “Yenna thavam saidhanaai, Thaye yashodha, yengum nirai Parabhrahmam unnai, “Amma”, endru azhaika, yenna thavam saidhanai?” (Oh Mother Yashodha, What penance did you that you had the privilege of being chosen by the all pervasive Lord to call, “Mother!.”) rang in my ears as I perambulated the trees and paid obeisance to the Lord of the World who is everywhere and Nowhere i.e. Now Here!

For a moment I glimpsed the totality of the whole and therein saw myself seeing the whole…! Like the Divine mother, and Arjun later in the Mahabharath war, I reeled and failed to grasp it!

Ochara temple is the only temple for Parabrahma in the country.

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Murudeeshwar